Wednesday, 11 May 2011

Day 9

 . . . . . . . . . Temples, Shrines and Sunshine


Day 2 in Kyoto
Woke up this morning to find it's going to be another scorcher!  It's not just hot, but it's very humid as well . . . .  my hair has been a right frizzy mess over the past couple of days!!!  Temperature today is still in the high 20's (approx 28 today).  So, we are off out again today to work on our T-Shirt tans.  A couple of Temples and Shrines on the itinerary today:-

  • Fushimi Shrine
  • Kiyomizu-dera Temple
  • Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavillion)
  • Gion
  • Pontocho Alley

So, as you can see, quite a packed day with a lot of walking in big temperatures.  Deep breath and we are off!  First stop - Fushimi Shrine.  This one is a little way out of Kyoto and involves a Metro ride.


On the way, I spotted this monument.  I don't know who it is or what it's for but liked it . . . 




At this point - I would like to mention that I have been on more public transport over the past 9 days than I have been in years in Sunderland!!!  We have been on buses, trains, metros, cable car, boat (well a pirate ship - does that count???) and ferry.  We've also been in a couple of taxis due to absolute necessity (which I will explain later!!!).  I'd be more than happy to use more public transport if it was as reliable as Japanese public transport.


So, on the Metro . . . .  . we arrived at Fushimi Temple.  This Temple is dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice and sake!  However, it is more well known as the avenue of red Torii Gates that have been donated by wealthy businessmen.  It is also the avenue of gates that featured in the 'Memoirs of a Geisha' movie.


These gates go on for ever and there are thousands of them.  There are a number of different walks through the gates and we would have liked to go on a long walk, but it was really too hot, so we did a medium sized walk instead!  It was amazing to walk through those gates


Hugging a big gate that cost about Y1m!!!!
Lots and lots of torii gates . . . . . 


There are a few different sizes as well . . .  apparently the small ones are about Y400,000, while the bigger ones go for Y1m.  We wandered round here for ages  . . . . . There is also a lovely little street by the Shrine that sells souvenirs.  All in all - a very lovely place.  I could have stayed there all day, but there were other places to see.


Now - at this point, I'm going to go off subject slightly.  It seems as though, everywhere we go, every shrine or temple we visit, there are hoards of school chiildren.  Not just one or two . . .  I mean hoards of them.  They are following us - and they are now shouting 'Hello' to both of us when they pass us!  Some of them are trying out their English skills on us, but in the most part, whenever we say 'Hello' back, they giggle and run away!!!  They are all dressed perfectly in their uniforms - mainly sailor uniforms for the girls and like a military jacket for the boys.


Anyway - on the bus . . .  with the school children to go to Kiyomizu-dera.  In the travel book, it tells me that people have been going up the gentle slop towards the temple for years to pray to the 11 headed Kannon and drink from the sacred spring.


Gentle Slope - my a***.  I almost had a heart attack getting up the side of that bloody great mountain - and in this heat as well!!!!!  I just hoped it was worth it when we got to the top.  The most disturbing thing was as I was huffing and puffing up this gentle slope, there were about 6 ladies dressed in full kimono with wood sandles just wandering up the slope like they were out for a nice stroll!!!!!  Not a bead of perspiration between them!!!


Anyway - we made it to the top and after a good 10 minutes to catch my breath and a bottle of water, we started to explore . . . . along with the hundreds of school kids!!!!

Spot the school kids . . . . 


Ladies in kimonos - not in a sweat . . .  looking perfect!!!
The sacred spring

 The view from the top of the Temple . . .  you can just see the Kyoto tower
It may be hotter than the surface of the sun - but it's very hazy out there!


This was another lovely long walk round the Temple.  I couldn't take a photo of the 11 faced Kannon as it was inside the Shrine and photos aren't allowed.  Once again, a really lovely walk round the gardens and Temple  . . .  could have stayed here all day too!!!


So, now we stroll back down the gentle slope . .  much easier, plus I got to stop in the shops and buy one or two things!  Half way down the slope there are a bunch a taxi's.  It was soooo hot and stifling - that I asked (no - begged) Scott to get a taxi to the next Temple.  Scott relented . . .  so taxi it is whooo hooo!!!


Ginkaku-ji next.


Now this is called the silver pavilion, but it's not covered in silver like the Golden Pavilion is covered in gold! This was built by Yoshimasa in tribute to his grandfather who built the Golden Pavilion, but it never got it's silver coating due to war.  However, the pavilion is set in a lush garden and a zen garden




The gardens surrounding the temple are peaceful, calming and tranquil . . . .  lush


 Look closely, there's a man in the tree timming the branches . . 
Bamboo


There were men working in the gardens as we were walking around.  Now, these men were not gardening with spades, rakes and lawnmowers . . .  oh no, they were using tweezers.  They were on their hands and knees tweezing blades of grass.  Now, there's dedication.


Right, the heat is getting worse, so back to the hotel for a break before we venture back out again.


So, wash and brush up and 10 minutes in the AirCon and we were back out.  Now we were going to Gion and Pontocho Alley in the hopes I was going to spot a real life Geisha. 


We started off with a nice walk by the river.  During the summer, the restaurants in Pontocho Alley build platforms over the canal that runs by the river, so we could see people sitting at Japanese style tables having their dinner.  So sophisticated. 


Pontocho Alley itself is a small alley way full of Ochaya (Tea houses).  This is where Geisha entertain business men.  A lot of these Ochaya are off limits to joe public.  You need a referral from a regular and you have to be approved  - and have quite a bit of cash!!!  No chance of me and Scott getting in these then!!


The alley is so kawaii


Sake!!!


There are also loads of restaurants and bars here.


So, we walked the length of the alley and into Gion, but didn't see one Geisha!  Shame . . 


Gion is a mix of both traditional and modern.  Shops selling traditional geisha kimono and hair accessories and also a lot of Ochaya's as well.  You also need a good referral to get in these places as well . . .  so we would have to get our dinner somewhere else!


Home time and I was hungry (and again, please don't judge).  I have been wanting to try a MaccyD's Teriyaki burger and as MaccyD's is right next to the hotel, I thought tonight was the night.  For the record, you can't get these in the UK, so it counts as Japanese food, and it was absolutely delicious!  Scott is getting more and  more adventurous with his food, but he still won't touch a MacDonalds burger!!!!  He had some noodles with meat stuff.


Anyway - off to bed as tomorrow we are on the move again and off to Hiroshima.

1 comment:

  1. Haha, "gentle" slope- who ever said that? We also walked it, and felt like it was never going to end. I really enjoyed all the shops on the way to Kiyomizudera Temple and wished we could have spent more time visiting it.

    We didn't have Ginkakuji on our agenda. Like you said, we had a list of places we wanted to go to, but at the end, it was- should we try to fit as many places as possible, or go to fewer and spend more time at each? We opted for the latter, and so glad we did- this was a vacation after all! (And it was raining the entire 2 days we were in Kyoto too, which also hampered with our plans.)

    I loved all the beautiful kimonos we saw in Kyoto.

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