Wednesday, 11 May 2011

Day 10

 . . . . . . .  Rain, Rain go away . . .


Up early this morning as we are on the move again . . . . . we are off to Hiroshima this morning.  I have been told that Hiroshima is a beautiful city, so we are looking forward to seeing it.


It's still incredibly warm and humid, and it feels like everything is sticking to you the minute you step outside!  But the station isn't very far away so a quick Metro ride and we are back at Kyoto station ready to get on the Shinkansen and the 90 minute journey to Hiroshima.  Back to the map. . . .  so we are currently in Kyoto Hiroshima is about 380km away . . . and it would take about 2 hours to get there.




The Shinkansen has aircon, so it was a nice comfy journey.


Our Bullet . . .  just managed to get a piccie!


However, when we arrive at Hiroshima it was absolutely pee'ing down.  Not just raining, oh no - it is absolutely bouncing.  It's also very very humid, so not ideal sightseeing weather!!!  We ended up getting a taxi from the station to the hotel.  The hotel wasn't too far from the hotel, but we would have been soaked if we had walked.


We checked into the Oriental Hotel and had a room on the 21st floor.  This gave us great views of Hiroshima.  I had been told there were views of the Peace Park and A-Dome from the hotel but we were on the wrong side for that. But this is what we could see from our room . . .


Basically rain and haze . . .  


We have a lovely room, a nice size, which is good as hotel rooms in Japan tend to be on the small side.






 Another small bath - Scott tried this one, but it was smaller than the bath in Kyoto!!!
Another automatic toilet  . . . . . 
 
 . . . . . with more scary buttons!!!


So, we did a little unpacking, then went off to hit the streets.  It was still absolutely pouring with rain.  We had initially thought about waiting a little while to see if the rain would stop, but in the end we went for it (actually, if we had waited until the rain stopped before going out, we wouldn't have left the Hotel!!!).


The first thing we noticed, is that there are loads of monuments around the city to commemorate those killed by the A-Bomb.  Unfortunately, a lot of them are in Japanese only, so we weren't too sure what or who they were for.


 Those are lots of paper cranes on the memorial
Not too sure what the bottles of water are for . . 

We then came to the Aioi Bridge. This was the original aiming point for the Bomb.


Just past the bridge is the A-Dome.  This is in the Peace Park.  It used to be the Industrial Promotion Hall and was one of the only buildings left standing after the bomb was dropped.    There had been a lot of discussion over the years as to whether to keep the Dome or tear it down but in 1996, it became a UNESCO World Heritage protected building.  Personally I think the correct decision has been made as the dome should be a constant reminder of what these weapons can do.






It is amazing to see . . . . 


Just beyond that is the Memorial for the Mobilized Students.  This is also covered in paper cranes:



Next was the Children's Peace Monument.  This monument is a statue dedicated to the memory of the children who died as a result of the bombing. The statue is of a girl with outstretched arms with a folded paper crane above her. 


The statue is based on the true story of Sadako Sasaki.  Sadako was 2 years old when the bomb was dropped and she died in 1955 age 12 years old as a result of radiation from the bomb. 


She believed that if she folded 1,000 paper cranes she would be cured. There are two versions of the ending to her story - one story claims she only managed to make 644 cranes before she died however, the Museum claims she made 1,000 and more.


To this day, people (mostly children) from all around the world fold cranes and send them to Hiroshima where they are placed near the statue.


The cranes are kept in glass boxes round the memorial.


Now we made our way to the Peace Museum.  On the way we passed the Memorial Cenotaph
The names of all the people killed by the Bomb are held under the cenotaph.  


Next is the Peace Flame.  The flame has burned continuously since it was lit in 1964, and will remain lit until all nuclear bombs on the planet are destroyed and the planet is free from the threat of nuclear annihilation.




We made it to the museum and it was absolutely fascinating.  It explained why Hiroshima was picked as a target, and what Hiroshima was like before August 6th 1945.  There are a load of exhibits, some a little gruesome, showing the injuries people suffered and also showed how the effects of the radiation continued for years especially for children born after the bombing to parents exposed to radiation.


There was a huge display showing Hiroshima before the bombing and what it looked like after the bombing.




The red ball shows where the Bomb detonated

Whenever there is a nuclear test, the Mayor of Hiroshima sends a letter to the Premier of that country asking them to stop testing and considering dis-arming all their bombs.  All these letters are on display - the last one being sent in October 2010 to President Obama.

It was a very thought provoking afternoon - very emotional, but I'm glad we went.

However, we now had to go back out in the rain. The problem was, we had spent so long in the museum, we had dried out . . . .  now we were going to get soaked again! I would have loved to have a walk around and look at all the other memorials and all the other sights Hiroshima had to show, but it was really miserable and raining too hard.

It took about 15 minutes to walk back to the hotel, but by this time, we were absolutely soaked to the skin - I could wring my socks out!

We were going to go out for Dinner, but once we got ready, the rain was really heavy and as we didn't have a plan of where to go, we decided to go to the little shop opposite the Hotel and get some takeaway!  Bento box for me, some pot noodle type thing for Scott.

The TV in the room only had Japanese stations, so Scott watched some baseball, then attempted to have a bath (he's really not made for a Japanese bath)!!!!  Early night for us tonight then . . . . .  Oh well never mind, it'll prepare us for our trip to Miyajima tomorrow.   

Day 9

 . . . . . . . . . Temples, Shrines and Sunshine


Day 2 in Kyoto
Woke up this morning to find it's going to be another scorcher!  It's not just hot, but it's very humid as well . . . .  my hair has been a right frizzy mess over the past couple of days!!!  Temperature today is still in the high 20's (approx 28 today).  So, we are off out again today to work on our T-Shirt tans.  A couple of Temples and Shrines on the itinerary today:-

  • Fushimi Shrine
  • Kiyomizu-dera Temple
  • Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavillion)
  • Gion
  • Pontocho Alley

So, as you can see, quite a packed day with a lot of walking in big temperatures.  Deep breath and we are off!  First stop - Fushimi Shrine.  This one is a little way out of Kyoto and involves a Metro ride.


On the way, I spotted this monument.  I don't know who it is or what it's for but liked it . . . 




At this point - I would like to mention that I have been on more public transport over the past 9 days than I have been in years in Sunderland!!!  We have been on buses, trains, metros, cable car, boat (well a pirate ship - does that count???) and ferry.  We've also been in a couple of taxis due to absolute necessity (which I will explain later!!!).  I'd be more than happy to use more public transport if it was as reliable as Japanese public transport.


So, on the Metro . . . .  . we arrived at Fushimi Temple.  This Temple is dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice and sake!  However, it is more well known as the avenue of red Torii Gates that have been donated by wealthy businessmen.  It is also the avenue of gates that featured in the 'Memoirs of a Geisha' movie.


These gates go on for ever and there are thousands of them.  There are a number of different walks through the gates and we would have liked to go on a long walk, but it was really too hot, so we did a medium sized walk instead!  It was amazing to walk through those gates


Hugging a big gate that cost about Y1m!!!!
Lots and lots of torii gates . . . . . 


There are a few different sizes as well . . .  apparently the small ones are about Y400,000, while the bigger ones go for Y1m.  We wandered round here for ages  . . . . . There is also a lovely little street by the Shrine that sells souvenirs.  All in all - a very lovely place.  I could have stayed there all day, but there were other places to see.


Now - at this point, I'm going to go off subject slightly.  It seems as though, everywhere we go, every shrine or temple we visit, there are hoards of school chiildren.  Not just one or two . . .  I mean hoards of them.  They are following us - and they are now shouting 'Hello' to both of us when they pass us!  Some of them are trying out their English skills on us, but in the most part, whenever we say 'Hello' back, they giggle and run away!!!  They are all dressed perfectly in their uniforms - mainly sailor uniforms for the girls and like a military jacket for the boys.


Anyway - on the bus . . .  with the school children to go to Kiyomizu-dera.  In the travel book, it tells me that people have been going up the gentle slop towards the temple for years to pray to the 11 headed Kannon and drink from the sacred spring.


Gentle Slope - my a***.  I almost had a heart attack getting up the side of that bloody great mountain - and in this heat as well!!!!!  I just hoped it was worth it when we got to the top.  The most disturbing thing was as I was huffing and puffing up this gentle slope, there were about 6 ladies dressed in full kimono with wood sandles just wandering up the slope like they were out for a nice stroll!!!!!  Not a bead of perspiration between them!!!


Anyway - we made it to the top and after a good 10 minutes to catch my breath and a bottle of water, we started to explore . . . . along with the hundreds of school kids!!!!

Spot the school kids . . . . 


Ladies in kimonos - not in a sweat . . .  looking perfect!!!
The sacred spring

 The view from the top of the Temple . . .  you can just see the Kyoto tower
It may be hotter than the surface of the sun - but it's very hazy out there!


This was another lovely long walk round the Temple.  I couldn't take a photo of the 11 faced Kannon as it was inside the Shrine and photos aren't allowed.  Once again, a really lovely walk round the gardens and Temple  . . .  could have stayed here all day too!!!


So, now we stroll back down the gentle slope . .  much easier, plus I got to stop in the shops and buy one or two things!  Half way down the slope there are a bunch a taxi's.  It was soooo hot and stifling - that I asked (no - begged) Scott to get a taxi to the next Temple.  Scott relented . . .  so taxi it is whooo hooo!!!


Ginkaku-ji next.


Now this is called the silver pavilion, but it's not covered in silver like the Golden Pavilion is covered in gold! This was built by Yoshimasa in tribute to his grandfather who built the Golden Pavilion, but it never got it's silver coating due to war.  However, the pavilion is set in a lush garden and a zen garden




The gardens surrounding the temple are peaceful, calming and tranquil . . . .  lush


 Look closely, there's a man in the tree timming the branches . . 
Bamboo


There were men working in the gardens as we were walking around.  Now, these men were not gardening with spades, rakes and lawnmowers . . .  oh no, they were using tweezers.  They were on their hands and knees tweezing blades of grass.  Now, there's dedication.


Right, the heat is getting worse, so back to the hotel for a break before we venture back out again.


So, wash and brush up and 10 minutes in the AirCon and we were back out.  Now we were going to Gion and Pontocho Alley in the hopes I was going to spot a real life Geisha. 


We started off with a nice walk by the river.  During the summer, the restaurants in Pontocho Alley build platforms over the canal that runs by the river, so we could see people sitting at Japanese style tables having their dinner.  So sophisticated. 


Pontocho Alley itself is a small alley way full of Ochaya (Tea houses).  This is where Geisha entertain business men.  A lot of these Ochaya are off limits to joe public.  You need a referral from a regular and you have to be approved  - and have quite a bit of cash!!!  No chance of me and Scott getting in these then!!


The alley is so kawaii


Sake!!!


There are also loads of restaurants and bars here.


So, we walked the length of the alley and into Gion, but didn't see one Geisha!  Shame . . 


Gion is a mix of both traditional and modern.  Shops selling traditional geisha kimono and hair accessories and also a lot of Ochaya's as well.  You also need a good referral to get in these places as well . . .  so we would have to get our dinner somewhere else!


Home time and I was hungry (and again, please don't judge).  I have been wanting to try a MaccyD's Teriyaki burger and as MaccyD's is right next to the hotel, I thought tonight was the night.  For the record, you can't get these in the UK, so it counts as Japanese food, and it was absolutely delicious!  Scott is getting more and  more adventurous with his food, but he still won't touch a MacDonalds burger!!!!  He had some noodles with meat stuff.


Anyway - off to bed as tomorrow we are on the move again and off to Hiroshima.